Small Personal Survival Kit

I've spent the last few months off and on puzzling over the ideal Personal Survival Kit. My goal was to make a small kit more substantial than my Mini Survival Kit and small enough to fit into a Nalgene bottle for easy transportability. I have yet to succeed, but the components will fit into a bottle + a purse/waist pack/or other option + on my key ring.

Here are six small Personal Survival Kits for your consideration.

(Prices were obtained from Amazon, Campmor, Nalgene, REI, Wal-Mart and other local stores.)

KIT #1
1. Adventure Medical Kits (AMK) Pocket Survival Pak (PSP) Plus ($60)
2. Nalgene 1 qt/L bottle ($11)
3. AMK 1- or 2-persons Heatsheets blanket ($6)
4. Translucent lighter that adjusts up to a mini blow torch ($1)
5. 50 ft. 400# utility cord ($5).

Total cost is about $83.00. Although compact and providing the barest of essentials, the issues I have with this kit are: 1) I already have a PSP and would have to buy a PSP Plus and, 2) if the expiration date for the chlorine dioxide tablets aren't 4-5 years in the future, I'd have to return the entire kit and buy another just to get the maximum expiration date.

Thinking I could do better, I devised the following according to my 15 Essential Systems...

KIT #2 - the AMK PSP ($28) and...

1. NAVIGATION - in the PSP.

2. PERSONAL ATTIRE - whatever is worn or is at hand.

3. HYDRATION -
a. Nalgene 1 qt/L bottle ($11)
b. Bandanna ($2) - for prefiltering floaties and sediment out of water
c. (30) Katadyn Micropur water purification tablets ($13) - scissors or a knife is needed to open the foil; tearing the foil open is difficult due to the child safety precaution. The PSP includes a scalpel blade which is not TSA-compliant.

4. SHELTER - AMK 1- or 2-persons Heatsheets blanket ($6).

5. COMMUNICATION - covered by the PSP.

6. FIRE - Adjustable lighter ($1).

7. ILLUMINATION - Key ring LED ($2).

8. NUTRITION - P-51 can opener ($1) - this is the larger version of the P-38 used by the U.S. military and is easier to use; authentic P-38 and P-51 can openers are made by and have "US Shelby" stamped on them.

9. FIRST AID KIT - whatever is in pockets, bag, or purse as EDC.

10. REPAIR AND TOOLS -
a. Swiss Army knife (SAK) Classic ($12)
b. Braided wire saw ($5) - a braided wire saw is stronger than a twisted or spiral wire saw
c. 50 ft. 400# utility cord ($5).

11. DOCUMENTATION - This list (also use as tinder).

12. FINANCES - whatever is in the wallet. I once went for six weeks in 1998 with only 11 cents plus a credit card. It saved me money because I didn't charge less than $10, but is definitely not advised for emergency situations. What if electricity had gone out and I couldn't use my credit card?

13. TRANSPORTATION -
a. Large utility carabiner – to clip bottle to belt or bag strap, not for climbing ($3)
b. Gallon freezer zip bag - to store contents while bottle is used for water ($0.25).

14. ENTERTAINMENT - whatever is on hand.

15. SECURITY - Fox 40 whistle.

Total cost is about $89.

But, what if the wire saw breaks and shouldn't every traveler carry along a corkscrew?

KIT #3 - the AMK PSP ($28) and...

1. NAVIGATION - in the PSP.

2. PERSONAL ATTIRE - whatever is worn or is at hand.

3. HYDRATION -
a. Nalgene 1 qt/L bottle ($11)
b. Bandanna ($2)
c. (30) Katadyn Micropur tablets ($13).

4. SHELTER - AMK 1- or 2-persons Heatsheets blanket ($6).

5. COMMUNICATION - covered by the PSP.

6. FIRE - Adjustable lighter ($1).

7. ILLUMINATION - Key ring LED ($2).

8. NUTRITION - P-51 can opener ($1) - optional because the SAK Camper has one, but it's been on my key ring for a while and I prefer it to the SAK can opener.

9. FIRST AID KIT - whatever is in pockets, bag, or purse as EDC.

10. REPAIR AND TOOLS -
a. SAK Classic ($12) + Camper (instead of the corkscrew, the Hiker has a Phillips screwdriver) ($20) OR Huntsman (II) (instead of the corkscrew, the Fieldmaster has a Phillips screwdriver) ($25) - (I was given the Classic years ago which lives on my key ring, then bought the Camper, but sometimes think I'd like to carry just one SAK.)
b. SAK corkscrew mini screwdriver ($6) - optional, perfect for tightening the tiny screws in eye/sun glasses
c. Braided wire saw ($5) - because the SAK(s) are not TSA-compliant
d. 50 ft. 400# utility cord ($5).

11. DOCUMENTATION - This list (also use as tinder).

12. FINANCES - whatever is in the wallet.

13. TRANSPORTATION -
a. Large utility carabiner ($3)
b. Gallon freezer zip bag ($0.25).

14. ENTERTAINMENT - whatever is on hand.

15. SECURITY - Fox 40 whistle.

Total cost is about $104-115 depending on the SAK(s).

Hmm, what if I hadn't already bought the AMK PSP?...

KIT #4

1. NAVIGATION - Key ring compass (Brunton 9041 Glow Mate) ($10).

2. PERSONAL ATTIRE - whatever is worn or is at hand.

3. HYDRATION -
a. Nalgene 1 qt/L bottle ($11)
b. Bandanna ($2)
c. (30) Katadyn Micropur tablets ($13).

4. SHELTER - AMK 1- or 2-persons Heatsheets blanket ($6).

5. COMMUNICATION -
a. Fox 40 Mini whistle ($7) - this is easier to blow than the Howler/Micro included in the PSP
b. Signal mirror ($8) - because I don't carry a mirrored compact.

6. FIRE -
a. Adjustable lighter ($1)
b. Magnesium bar ($5).

7. ILLUMINATION - Key ring LED ($2).

8. NUTRITION - P-51 can opener ($1).

9. FIRST AID KIT - whatever is in pockets, bag, or purse as EDC.

10. REPAIR AND TOOLS -
a. SAK Classic ($12) + Camper ($20) OR Huntsman (II) ($25)
b. SAK corkscrew mini screwdriver ($6) - optional
c. Braided wire saw ($5)
d. 50 ft. 400# utility cord ($5) OR 100 ft. 550# parachute cord ($8) which is better because the core is 7 strands of 2 twisted together that may be extracted for use, but it won't fit in the bottle
e. AMK roll of duct tape ($3) - listed for pricing purposes. I actually wrapped 5+ ft. of heavy-duty duct tape I already had around an old non-credit card.

11. DOCUMENTATION -
a. This list (also use as tinder)
b. Pro Knots cards ($5) - I know some knots, but in a time of stress such as a survival event, will I be able to remember them? The PSP comes with survival information including a few essential knots.

12. FINANCES - whatever is in the wallet.

13. TRANSPORTATION -
a. Large utility carabiner ($3)
b. Gallon freezer zip bag ($0.25).

14. ENTERTAINMENT - whatever is on hand.

15. SECURITY - Fox 40 whistle.

Total cost is about $120-133 depending on the cordage and SAK(s), so not only did the PSP save me money, it gave me more.

The next kit fills some gaps.

KIT #5

1. NAVIGATION - Key ring compass (Brunton 9041 Glow Mate) ($10).

2. PERSONAL ATTIRE - whatever is worn or is at hand.

3. HYDRATION - because water is crucial, I believe in at least two ways to purify water, chemical halogens and boiling.
a. Nalgene 1 qt/L bottle ($11)
b. 5’ aquarium airline tubing – for siphoning water from sources too narrow or too shallow to collect directly with the bottle ($0.60)
c. Bandanna ($2)
d. (30) Katadyn Micropur tablets ($13)
e. Foil loaf pan ($1) & quart zip bag ($0.10) - for boiling water and to keep soot off of other stuff after use
f. Large oven bag & tie ($0.55) - to hold more water & to collect water by transpiration.

4. SHELTER - AMK 1- or 2-persons Heatsheets blanket ($6).

5. COMMUNICATION -
a. Fox 40 Mini whistle ($7)
b. Signal mirror ($8).

6. FIRE -
a. Adjustable lighter ($1)
b. Magnesium bar ($5).

7. ILLUMINATION - Key ring LED ($2).

8. NUTRITION - P-51 can opener ($1).

9. FIRST AID KIT - whatever is in pockets, bag, or purse as EDC.

10. REPAIR AND TOOLS -
a. SAK Classic ($12) + Camper ($20) OR Huntsman (II) ($25)
b. SAK corkscrew mini screwdriver ($6) - optional
c. Braided wire saw ($5)
d. 50 ft. 400# utility cord ($5)
e. AMK roll of duct tape ($3).

11. DOCUMENTATION -
a. This list (also use as tinder).
b. Pro Knots cards ($5).

12. FINANCES - whatever is in the wallet.

13. TRANSPORTATION -
a. Large utility carabiner ($3)
b. Gallon freezer zip bag ($0.25).

14. ENTERTAINMENT - whatever is on hand.

15. SECURITY - Fox 40 whistle.

Total cost is about $125-137 depending on the SAK(s).

The largest kit I can justify and still call a small survival kit contains something for each of my 15 Essential Systems...

KIT #6 - the AMK PSP ($28) and...

1. NAVIGATION - Key ring compass (Brunton 9041 Glow Mate) ($10) - because it's handier than hauling out the PSP to check the compass, plus this one is luminous.

2. PERSONAL ATTIRE - Emergency poncho ($1).

3. HYDRATION -
a. 1 qt./L Nalgene bottle ($11)
b. 5’ tubing ($0.60)
c. (2) orange bandannas ($4) - any bright color is good for signaling, orange is best; two bandannas are better than one
d. (30) Katadyn Micropur tablets ($13)
e. Foil loaf pan ($1) & qt zip bag for storage ($0.10) - redundant because the sheet of foil in the PSP is easy to tear
f. Large oven bag & tie ($0.55).

4. SHELTER -
a. AMK 1- or 2-persons Heatsheets survival blanket ($6)
b. 9' x 6' plastic sheet 0.7 mil ($5) - multiple uses such as a ground cover, collect rain water, build a solar still; I cut a 9' x 12' sheet in half. Some lists recommend (2) 30-33 gallon trash bags or 50-55 gallon barrel liners, but as an apartment-dweller, I don't need the extra bags that come in a box. Splitting a box with friends or neighbors would work except not everyone in close proximity is on the same page. So be it. I have to look out for #1.

5. COMMUNICATION - covered by the PSP. I added a Rite In The Rain pocket notepad ($5.30) and EDC a Space Pen Trekker. Please note that Parker pens accept a Fisher Space pen refill using the included adapter and Fisher makes other Space refills for other pen brands.

6. FIRE - because fire is crucial, I believe in three ways to start a fire; the PSP contains one of them.
a. Adjustable lighter ($1)
b. Magnesium bar ($5).

7. ILLUMINATION -
a. Key ring LED ($2)
b. LED headlamp or mini LED flashlight ($20) - added because the key ring LED's button has to be pressed constantly and it will be difficult to work with only one hand with such a small light.

8. NUTRITION - P-51 can opener ($1).

9. FIRST AID KIT - Johnson & Johnson On The Go FAK ($1) - transferred to a snack zip bag to save space & added more items I already had on hand.

10. REPAIR AND TOOLS -
a. 100’ 550# parachute cord ($8)
b. SAK Classic ($12) + Camper ($20) OR SAK Huntsman (II) ($25)
c. SAK corkscrew mini screwdriver ($6)
d. Braided wire saw ($5)
e. Utility gloves (women's Mechanix, $12.50) - because my bare hands are sure to get blistered in a survival situation putting me at risk for infection
f. Lansky Quick Fix pocket sharpener ($7) - the most important tool is a knife and a dull knife is dangerous
g. (12) safety pins (4 each size) sizes 1, 2, 3 ($1)
h. Quart freezer zip bag ($0.10)
i. ResQMe key ring car escape tool ($10)

11. DOCUMENTATION - covered by the PSP; add this list.

12. FINANCES - add cash and some coins for a pay phone.

13. TRANSPORTATION -
a. Hunter's waist pack, 410 cu. in./6.7 L (I don't know how they measured these things because the main compartment is more like 4.5 L and the smaller, flatter compartment isn't more than .5 L; $7 at Wal-Mart) - because I prefer to carry a smaller purse
b. Large utility carabiner ($3)
c. Gallon freezer zip bag ($0.25).

14. ENTERTAINMENT -
a. Mini deck of cards - to help pass the time while waiting for rescue ($3)
b. Key ring pocket kite - in case it's too windy to play cards as long as there are no kite-eating trees nearby; might also help with signaling (I bought this from a kite store in California several years ago and since forgot the price; figure on $6-10 each.).

15. SECURITY - Fox 40 whistle. Add bear spray if passing through bear country.

Total cost is <$198-211 depending on the SAK(s) plus emergency cash, plus kite, plus bear spray.

Except for the PSP and the key ring items which should be kept on you, and the water bottle and bear spray, everything in Kit #6 fits into half of a gallon zip bag making it easy to tuck into a bag, a waist pack, a desk drawer, or a vehicle.

Of course, emergency rations need to be added to any kit. Clif bars are good or any foods containing sugar, carbohydrates, protein, and fat.

Also add personal medications, lip balm, sun screen, insect repellent, hand sanitizer, and biodegradable soap.

The PSP was designed to be carried at all times in a pocket, purse, briefcase, or pack and is the basis for my Mini Kit. The other kit components detailed above could be the basis of an office, car survival, or travel kit and are good for just about any outdoor activity. Please note, however, that you should keep the water purification tablets with you during warm weather instead of leaving them in a hot vehicle.

I trust this post gives you ideas for assembling personal survival kits for yourself and your loved ones. The advantage of assembling your own kit is it is customized for you, you know exactly what is in it and the quality of and purpose for each item.

To spread out the expense, I suggest starting with Kit #1 or 2 to have the bare minimum then expand from there as you see fit. The key ring items could be Christmas stocking stuffers or "just thinking of you" impromptu gifts while a SAK could be a birthday, graduation, or holiday gift.

To see how I customized my PSP, please see my post, "Mini Survival Kit."

Long Time No See

It's surprising how quickly time has passed. Busy with other things, I've had thoughts about a variety of posts, but no time to see them through by writing them up.

A few of the posts I haven't done are about:

1. An air travel survival kit. Substituting TSA-compliancy for a knife turns this into a small kit ideal for day-hiking.

2. A few states still legalizing marital rape. I thought the U.S. was a leader in women's rights but it turns out wives in those states are not much better off under the law than wives in certain Muslim countries.

3. The direction of my writing. I always thought to write novels in the thriller genre, but I've been reading Hemingway and find my desire turning to more literary prose.

If it's true that one doesn't die until one's life work is done, at the rate I'm going, I'll live forever.

Fortunately as a Christian, it's already guaranteed in writing.

Until next time.

Rule No. 9

"Rule No. 9 - Never go anywhere without a knife." -- Leroy Jethro Gibbs, NCIS.

I've pretty much obeyed this rule most of my life. While young, Dad let me "find" tiny folding knives with pretty marbled handles and 1.5 inch blades. He'd tuck them on top of the door moldings, I'd get a chair to see if he had hidden a knife over the doorway and got to keep whatever knives I found.

(No, I don't think Mom knew what we were doing.)

In high school, I took to carrying one of these little knives in my purse, rotating them according to whichever color I preferred that week. I never told anyone, and never used one, but felt good having one along. It gave me a sense of security knowing I could sharpen my pencil if the classroom pencil sharpener ever failed.

Then, I switched to mechanical pencils and quit carrying a little knife.

In my late teens-early 20s, I carried a diver's knife strapped below my calf while scuba diving off the island of O'ahu in Hawai'i, mostly off a boat out of Poka'i Bay in Wai'anae, but also shore dives along the North Shore and south shore over to the Blow Hole on the Halona Coast.

I mainly used the blade to crack open sea urchins. Spearing the animal with the point, I would offer it to a nearby moray eel peering out from its hole in some rocks. My dive buddy thought I was crazy-brave to be feeding moray eels this way, and didn't hesitate to tell our dive companions when we rejoined them, but I was never in any danger since I wasn't threatening the eels. Sea urchins are special treats to them because they can't get to the animals because of the spines and the morsel was at a safe distance at the point of my dagger, not in my fingers. It was a calculated risk that wasn't at all risky, the way I did it.

Later on the Mainland, I was given a Classic Swiss Army Knife that I promptly attached to my key ring. Using it mostly to open letters and packages, cut hang nails, file broken fingernails, and trim errant hairs in my bangs using my car visor's cosmetic mirror, it remains a convenient EDC tool.

Years later, I got another Classic SAK for my hiker's survival necklace and a Trekker SAK for my hiking pack knowing I should have a fixed-blade sheath knife in case I ever get into a survival situation because the hinge of a folder is the weakest part and a survival event is the worst time for a knife to break.

However, I couldn't rationalize the cost of the knife I lusted after. A few weeks ago, I finally ordered an affordable survival knife. Made by Benchmade as is the expensive knife I coveted, I got the Rant with a drop point, plain blade that is just under 4.5 inches long. The overall length of the knife is slightly over 9 inches. The sheath is Molle compatible. Benchmade not only has an excellent reputation for quality, the company offers sharpening for life for its plain edge blades for only the cost of return shipping.

At the same time, I ordered a Benchmade Griptilian H2O folder to replace my Trekker. The Griptilian has a modified drop point, plain blade that is under 3.5 inches. The overall open length is slightly over 8 inches; it is 4.62 inches closed.

Popular with other hikers, I don't like the Trekker because of its weight and because the serration starts at the tip of the blade instead of at the base. I also don't like the way it closes. If I don't position my fingers exactly right and am not very careful, I could end up cutting myself while closing it. It makes me nervous.

The Griptilian is much lighter and much easier to open and close. It is very comfortable in my hand, unlike the Trekker. While I might miss the Trekker's awl, I don't mind not having the saw blade because I already had a wire saw in my pack before getting the Trekker. I wouldn't miss the other tools of the Trekker because of the Leatherman I carry for the pliers and wire-cutter.

I'm thinking to use the Griptilian as my motel camping knife as well, to replace the Farberware kitchen utility knife I've been using and don't like.

Remembering Aron Ralston's difficulty in retrieving his dropped multi-tool in the movie, "127 Hours," I immediately threaded wrist lanyards through the eyelets of my new knives using 1/8" utility cord with mini cord locks to cinch them to my wrist so the lanyard isn't loose to slip off and let my knife fall to perdition, thinking a survival event is the worst time to lose a knife.

I'm very pleased with my new knives especially since I got them both for less than MSRP from Amazon Marketplace Sellers and the Rant came with free shipping.

Evaporated Milk +

The advantage of evaporated milk, whether powdered or canned, is it doesn't have to be refrigerated making it ideal for hikers, campers, boaters, travelers, and preparedness.

The disadvantage is it doesn't taste as good as fresh milk prompting me to buy expensive box milk that doesn't need refrigeration.

Trying out a tip I read in "Long-Distance Hiking: Lessons from the Appalachian Trail" by Roland Mueser © 1998 Ragged Mountain Press, I added a couple of spoonfuls of non-dairy creamer to my cup of evaporated milk, stirred well, and gingerly tasted it.

It was great! Whoo-hoo!

[Updated 12/1/2011 - If I use non-fat, non-dairy creamer, it's even better to add a couple of spoonfuls of "Original" Carnation Malted Milk.]

New Tent

A year ago, I decided to buy a new hiking tent. There's nothing wrong with the hiking tent I already have other than it isn't free-standing and I don't like having to contort myself to get around the center pole blocking the entrance.

I shopped until I dropped last year, not finding any tent I liked well enough to buy. Either the tents weren't free-standing, the ceilings were too low, the carry weight too heavy, or the cost too high.

This year, I settled on the Kelty Salida 2 which came out just last year.

Now, all I have to do is wait for this unbearably hot weather to subside.

Kindle Games on Sale

In case you didn't know, beside reading material, there are games to play on the Kindle when we want a break from reading including a variety of Sudoku games and New York Times crossword puzzles plus free games like Blackjack, Every Word, Mine Sweeper, Shuffled Row, and Video Poker. Occasionally, some of the games go on sale which is, of course, the best time to get them. At this time, several games are available until March 27 for only US$0.99. Unfortunately, some are not available to residents outside the U.S.

So far, the games I enjoy most are:

Maze A Thon (regular price $0.99)

Slingo (regular price $3.99) and

Solitaire (regular price $3.99).

This week, I picked up:

Chess (regular price $2.99)

Hangman 4 Kids (regular price $1.99)

Mahjong Solitaire (regular price $3.99)

Scrabble (regular price $4.99) and

Texas Hold'em (regular price $3.99)

saving nearly $13 off the regular prices. Score!

Score your own by checking out your favorite games or find new ones you might enjoy while the sale lasts.

Snow Days

Now that the worst of the snow days have passed, it's time for a recap.

Since I checked my emergency food kit last fall and had plenty of groceries for regular daily use, the day before the big storm hit two weeks ago, I looked for what last minute items I'd need to see me through the rest of the week and, not needing anything, decided to be snowed in with a pan pizza from Pizza Hut. The pizza lasted two days.

Although I stayed in for the most part, there were a few times that I went outside just to get out. I've never had problems in fresh snow, but after it melts and refreezes overnight, walking gets dicey. I easily pulled the YakTrax Walkers onto my rain boots for the first time since I bought them in 2009 and really like how they bit into the icy snow and secured my footing. My appreciation tripled after hearing another woman slipped and fell, breaking a leg in two places. She's due to have surgery next week.

After the roads were cleared of the worst, I went to buy a few perishables such as bread, cheese, and bananas. Either I was too early and the store hadn't been restocked or other customers had already purchased the same items I wanted preparatory to the following week's snow storm that turned out to be a lot milder. I lucked out on bread probably only because I wanted wheat; all the white bread was gone.

Another store had bananas so green, I decided to buy grapes instead.

While unloading my few groceries, I visited with a woman who said she and her sister went to the store to stock up the day before the big snow storm hit and found it such a madhouse, they put their children in the shopping carts to protect them from the other customers' pushing and shoving. She said all the bottled water was gone.

I gave my report and was secretly glad I was able to skip buying groceries until after the big storm when the store was a lot calmer.

Being prepared is well worth it!

The only glitch was that a book I want to read is more expensive as an ebook than as a discounted paperback. Since buying the paperback was a spur-of-the-moment impulse, and I wasn't sure of the title, I didn't get it thinking there were enough copies on the rack for me to get it when I returned after the next snow storm if it was the one I hadn't yet read.

Surprise, surprise! Not only was "The Brass Verdict" by Michael Connelly completely sold out when I returned after last week's snow storm, there was only one copy of his "Nine Dragons" left. Obviously, other people had the same idea about reading through the snow storms that I had.

I passed the time during the snow storms and waiting for the roads to reopen by watching TV, downloading an MP3 Bible, reading several ebooks including "The Tenant of Wildfell Hall" by Anne Bronte and Nathaniel Hawthorne's "The House of the Seven Gables" and playing Solitaire on my Kindle.

Some Thoughts About Hiking

Several weeks ago, a friend went on a six-mile hike that turned into a nine-mile hike. When I asked if she went alone, she replied no, she had gone with a guy. She never hikes alone because if you fall, you might not be found soon enough.

True. However, there are easy to moderate trails where I can't imagine anyone falling that are popular enough that someone in distress would soon receive help.

Setting aside the different degrees of hiking difficulty, here are additional considerations:

1. Do you have a hiking staff or trekking poles that can support your weight to help you rescue yourself? Can your companion(s) carry you out or make a travois to drag you out?

2. Does anyone in your party have a cell phone and the number to call for a rescue team, usually the sheriff's department?

3. Can your or your companion's smart phone provide a GPS fix so the rescue team can be told your location? If not, do you hike with a GPS receiver? If your electronic devices fail or if you don't carry any, is your companion skilled enough with a map and compass to give coordinates for a search unit to begin looking for you?

4. If your companion goes for help, does s/he know the way there and back? Is anyone carrying a pen or pencil and paper, preferably waterproof, to give your coordinates to the rescue unit?

5. How will you protect yourself from dying of hypothermia/hyperthermia while waiting for help that might be many hours away? Do you have insulation from the cold and protection from the sun among your personal attire and emergency sheltering gear? Do you have a fire-making kit?

6. How will you prevent yourself from dying of dehydration while waiting for help that might be days away? Did you take more water than you expected you'd need or do you have the means to collect and purify water your companion might find in the area for you before s/he goes for help?

7. If your hiking companion is the one who gets injured, are you able to do the same things that you're counting on if you were injured?

It's this last point that bothers me. Too many times, I've found that women depend on men to bail them out of trouble to the extent they're virtually helpless. What if it's the man who gets injured?

After all, I once skied with a man who hit a tree. Another man got bucked off a horse and was knocked out for about an hour.

What if a companion hiker doesn't know where they are or how to get help back to the injured party? If it's a less popular trail, it won't be like in town where you can stop at a gas station to ask for directions.

This isn't a matter of one person being more able than another solely because of sex as if it's a matter of physical strength. It's a matter of knowledge and there's no good reason for anyone of either sex not to know or be able to figure out where they are and how to get back.

This isn't about my friend hiking with a guy, either, since I know she's gone hiking with women. The same thing goes for two women hiking together, two men, or a larger group, mixed sex or not. It isn't about her at all. This post contains some thoughts about hiking that arose after my exchange with her.

My point is that more than one person needs to know how to use a map and compass. Leaving the responsibility to a single person just isn't the smart thing to do.

If you hike or want to start, please take a navigation class or teach yourself how to use a map and compass from resources online or books from the public library and PRACTICE.

If you're not interested in hiking but know someone who hikes, please challenge her or him to ensure they know how to use a map and compass and encourage them to learn if they don't.

It's a basic skill for hiking and someone's life may depend on it.

Cue Evil Laughter

All this preparedness stuff got me thinking about camping. This means I have to inventory my camping gear because a lot of things were stolen from my car when I was in San Ysidro, CA.

One of the items stolen was a BearVault. Although I'm not currently in bear country, a bear-resistant canister also protects food from being stolen by small creatures such as raccoons that are quite adept at accessing food campers thought they had secured.

Not only do I have to decide whether or not to replace the BearVault now or wait until later, I also need to decide whether to buy another BearVault or get a canister made by a different company.

Reading customer reviews, I was struck by a series of thoughts:

Considering that bears can break into cars but not into canisters approved by the Sierra Interagency Black Bear Group (SIBBG)...

Considering that BearVaults are made of super-strong polycarbonate, the same stuff used to make bullet-proof glass...

Considering that some campers were able to open their BearVaults to store food inside but missed meals because they weren't able to re-open them to get their food out...

Considering that I may have removed the label on the lid that has instructions on how to open the BearVault (I can't recall)...

Considering that San Ysidro, being a border town, has a majority Hispanic population and the thief might not have been able to read English if I left the label on (considering some restaurants there had menus only in Spanish and many business signs were in Spanish)...

Considering I had nothing worth more than US$20 stored in my BearVault (a coffee mug gift for a friend wrapped in a couple of shawls for cushioning)...

The thief likely expended great effort over a period of time to open my BearVault for very little reward, if it was ever opened at all!

Cue evil laughter.

I'm getting a kick from the thought of buying another see-through BearVault, putting a $20 bill in it, and Super gluing the lid shut just for the joy of knowing another thief will be aggravated by not knowing how to get the money out.

Except bear canisters are too expensive to buy just for the heck of it, I'd rather spend the $20 myself, and when the time comes, I've decided to try the Model 812 by Garcia Machine that can be opened, obviously, with a simple tool such as a coin.

Still, it's good to laugh at the idea.

Preparedness 2010 - Part 4

Basically, I'm the kind of person who rather install new flashlight batteries and forget about them until they fail and need replacing which always occurs while I'm using it.

Playing electronic solitaire gave me an idea. Why don't I replace all AA cells every six months whether they need it or not when I check my emergency food and water supplies and save the older cells to power my solitaire game that also uses AA cells?

That way, the flashlights for my home, car, and Grab & Go bag will always have the freshest batteries.

After all, it isn't much more effort than replacing the cells in my NOAA weather radio or home's smoke detector twice a year when we change to/from Daylight Savings Time.

Lesson 7

Hallelujah!

I finally made it past Lesson 7 which has eight measures of the "Ode to Joy," the theme of Beethoven's Symphony No. 9, that was hanging me up.

Indeed, playing it on the tin whistle is soooo much easier than on a recorder!

Now, I'm on Lesson 10, the last lesson of the book that came with my recorder, having skipped Lesson 8 because I have no idea how the songs are supposed to sound, and am looking forward to my next tutorial that I'm expecting to be delivered tomorrow.

Using a tutorial with a CD is important for me since I don't read music well enough to play by the timing indicated on the sheet music. I play along with the song running through my head, and if I don't know a song, I can't play it.

For Lesson 7, because there's more music running through my mind than there are notes on the page, I searched this afternoon and found the rest of the sheet music. By the looks of it, I'm not intimidated although I still have to learn how to play it. That's okay for now because while I can play the eight measures smoothly, I'm still learning since I'm not yet able to keep up with the music in my mind. I'm sure I'll get better with practice and when I can do it all, I'll be able to play along with my CD of Symphony No. 9.

Just imagine - me, playing Beethoven on my tin whistle backed by the Chamber Orchestra of Europe conducted by Nikolaus Harnoncourt!

Whoo-hoo!

The Downside of Learning to Play a Musical Instrument

Ever since I was a child, I've wanted to learn how to play a musical instrument. Back then, it was the organ. My parents enrolled me in a package of ten piano group lessons that I complained about because I was too young to appreciate having to wait around for 40 minutes of the hour-long lessons while the two other students received their 20 minutes apiece.

(Not that I'd appreciate waiting around for 40 minutes now, either.)

It was too boring for words and the little electric piano the teacher had us using sounded terrible. There was absolutely no joy in the experience that I had eagerly anticipated and my parents never tried it again.

In my teens, I got myself an acoustic guitar, some instructional material, and tried to teach myself to play. I thought I was doing fairly well and enjoyed the sounds I was making but quit because I didn't know it was normal for fingers to hurt like crazy until calluses built up on tender skin.

I'll spare you other painful details with more instruments in the intervening years because those two examples should suffice for you to get the big picture.

During my road trip in 2007, I bought an instructional book by David Harp that came with a CD and harmonica from the REI store near San Diego. It was different because it didn't have songs like other music books but taught riffs for blues and rock songs. They were very easy to learn and I was imitating a train with whistle the first night. Maybe it wasn't music in the sense of playing a melody, but it sounded good to me and, most of all, it was fun!

Until I misplaced the book and CD.

Last year, I bought a book and recorder from the Wal-Mart children's toy section for about US$10. Being adult about it, I refrained from buying one of the translucent bright red or blue or purple recorders and settled on a solid, sedate, ivory; not that I wasn't tempted to get one that was more colorful.

Several times last month, I watched "Australia" on HBO thinking more and more, "I can do that" whenever the boy played "Over The Rainbow" on his harmonica. So, I got my harmonica and copied the tabs for the song off the Internet.

Except the song doesn't sound right.

Getting another copy that doesn't sound right either, but in different places, I spent over three and a half hours one Thursday night with them and my harmonica making a third set of tabs that sound right to me.

My lips still hurt on Saturday.

This time, I know not to give up entirely as I did with the guitar, but what do I do in the meantime? I still want to make music and even my sporadic, paltry attempts are deeply satisfying.

Another thought that crossed my mind was, "What if I get another episode of Bell's Palsy?" although I've been at least 95% free of it since Christmas. With a minor sense of not being 100% okay, I decided that I need something else that's travel-sized to alternate with the harmonica. That way, should I lose control of one side of my mouth again, I could stick the mouthpiece into the other side and still be able to play.

I went back to the recorder and played through the lessons to see why I quit. Ah, yes, I remember. Lesson 7 introduces a note that requires me to uncover the thumb hole. That was the show-stopper.

You see, my thumb has a mind of its own.

When I tell it to cover the hole, by golly it's going to keep that hole covered no matter what. As a result, when I tell it to uncover the hole, it yields only with intense reluctance after much earnest protesting. When I tell it to cover the hole again, it yells at me to make up my [blinking] mind. There's no point to switching hands because both thumbs are in cahoots.

I hate being chewed out by my own body.

After a week of fighting over that single note, I'm thinking there's got to be something better for me.

My remaining options appear to be an ocarina or a tin whistle, also called a penny whistle although many are no longer made of tin and none cost only a penny anymore.

The ocarina is an old South American wind instrument that was made popular by Giuseppe Donati, an Italian brickmaker circa 1850. Issued to soldiers during World War I and II, ocarinas are having a revival because of "The Legend of Zelda" game series by Nintendo. Ocarinas are available in different styles, materials, colors, and prices starting at US$5 with the number of holes ranging from four to twelve.

The ocarinas with four finger holes that don't have thumb holes sound like they'd be the best for me. Those that have six or more holes may instigate more arguments with my thumbs.

Researching tin whistles is encouraging because they are reputed to be the easiest instrument to learn, don't have thumb holes (Hallelujah!), sound better than recorders, and are available in a wide range of prices. Since even professional musicians use whistles that cost US$25 or less, there's no snob appeal in having an expensive whistle. The thing that matters is whether or not you enjoy the way your whistle sounds.

The sole negative is that since the increased popularity of Celtic music that started back in the 1970s and because the majority of Celtic music is in the key of D, it's hard to find instructional material in the key of C even when it isn't Celtic music.

The good part about the soprano or high D whistles that beginners typically use is that they're easier to play than those in the key of C because they require less air. Because the holes are closer together, it's less of a stretch which may be a determining factor for the small hands of children.

Another good thing is that tin whistles all use the same fingering to produce the notes. Once learned, what one has to do to play in a different key is merely get a whistle in that key and get used to the whistle's different length and spacing of the holes which isn't that easy when it's something like a low D.

Learning on a whistle in a key other than D results in the student not sounding right only when playing along with an instructional CD or with other people unless they're also using instruments in the same or a complementary key.

Hannah Kate Kinnersley wrote in her Wall Street Journal article, "Music Lessons: Learning To Play The Tin Whistle," that learning to play a musical instrument is good for children because "Studies say that children who play an instrument score higher on math tests and show improved concentration. Adults who play score better in memory tests."

The advantages of getting an inexpensive, travel-sized, musical instrument is that you'll have something to entertain yourself and others during overly long waits, car and bus rides, hiking rest stops, or evenings by the camp fire; you'll be able to cheer and comfort yourself when you're lonely, and it won't cost much to replace if lost.

In addition to these advantages, it's ideal for your preparedness Grab & Go bag because it doesn't require batteries.

Even if you don't count relaxation or the sense of accomplishment that comes from making your own music, it's all upside. There is no downside to learning how to play a musical instrument.

All you have to do is select an appropriate instrument and find the method of learning that works best for you.

First Kite Day of 2009

Wednesday afternoon was the first time I was able to go kite-flying since the chill of last fall through the thunderstorms of nearly the last three weeks.

With the ground still muddy in spots, I carefully picked my way through the park to select where to place my stakes after launching each kite. I usually like to fly two or three kites at a time, anchoring them with light tent stakes, because they look so much better when flown in small groups, keeping each other company.

The first and third kites are favorite deltas of mine, Flip Flops #33195 and Warm Checkerboard #33123, both by Premier. They were doing well, so I launched my Parafoil 5 Rainbow Tecmo, Premier item #12035, between them for variety. The color-blocked tube tail proved to be too heavy for the existing wind, so I exchanged it after a while for the streamers that came with the kite.

There's something about kites. At the same time, they are both calming and uplifting, their bright colors cheering the soul while the fresh air and sunshine clear away the stresses of modern life.

The parafoil rode low above the horizon as sleds and parafoils usually do, and was easy to watch while the deltas surfed the vagaries of the wind. At times, they soared directly overhead and I felt like I was bending over backwards to view them from under the brim of my hat. When I was too lazy to check overhead, I searched for their shadows flitting along the grass.

After a while, I brought down the parafoil by walking it down with my hand on the line to lower the kite. Replacing it with a ladybug kite I bought last week at Walmart, I launched the ladybug only to have it crash almost immediately.

Bother!

Launching it again, I kept a suspicious eye on it until it got up to altitude having never flown that type of kite before and having had trouble with a previous kite by that company. The ladybug is a 25" wide modified diamond kite in that the top is a diamond while the lower section is rounded like the shape of a ladybug.

In addition to a center spine with cross spars to be inserted by the customer like a standard diamond kite, the top edges of the LadyBug also have fiberglass rods sewn in. The tail consists of a 3/8" wide length of nylon with nine small ladybugs stitched on at intervals.

After the relaunch, it flew nicely for a while, the loose legs wiggling realistically as if the ladybug was crawling across the sky. Oddly enough, this kite was flying west, directly into the descending sun while my other kites were flying toward the north. While I pondered why this might be, considering the wind was from the southeast, the ladybug headed downward as though it was going to do a gentle loop then accelerated to... CRASH!

Hmm.

Relaunching it made me review how other kites behaved. My deltas, diamonds, birds, and butterflies, usually make loops or simply drift downwards like sleds and parafoils when the wind goes away. I have a seagull kite, Go Fly A Kite item #15200, that consists mostly of outstretched wings that settles to the ground when the wind dies and has been known to relaunch itself when the wind picks up again, if I'm patient and leave it alone.

This ladybug?

There it goes again. CRASH! Now, I'm annoyed. How does X Kites test their kites, anyway? The other kite I had problems with was their SpinBox Spectrum, #82402, that I returned to the store I bought it from when I was in California. I tried that one out at Tecolate Shores in San Diego, and while it looked great while flying and drew compliments, it wasn't long before the fins came off of the cross spars which then popped out of the clips causing the section to collapse and the entire kite to drop out of the sky.

I relaunched the LadyBug, recalling that I haven't had problems with the delta or CloudBuster diamond kites made by X Kites that I own. Maybe it's only their kites with unique construction that have problems. Since too much wind causes kites to spin while too little wind causes kites to drift down tail first, maybe there's something about the wind conditions that this kite, rated for 5-18 MPH/8-29 KPH wind speeds, doesn't like.

I recalled the afternoon in 2007 when I was flying two kites at Mission Bay, San Diego. A family of three arrived and tried to launch a fairy princess kite unsuccessfully many times with frequent looks at mine flying successfully. The father got bored and wandered off to check the water.

Moved with pity, I went over and asked if I might help. The mother agreed, saying they bought the kite from Target, manufacturer unknown, for their daughter's eighth birthday and it was the first time they were trying to fly it.

Well, I tried and had the same crashing results. Turning it over, I found that there was a huge, heavy, sprocket in the center of the fairy's chest that I was sure was the reason the kite wouldn't fly.

Pulling down one of my butterfly kites that was made by New Tech, because the shape was similar to the fairy princess, I showed it to the mother, pointing out the differences in construction between it and their fairy, that there was no good reason for the heavy sprocket, and recommending that they return their daughter's birthday kite and go to a kite store to buy another that was sure to fly in the lighter wind conditions that prevail during the San Diego summers.

CRASH! The LadyBug, X Kites item #80472, came down again, breaking my reverie. No wonder people get discouraged about flying kites; some are really persnickety about the wind conditions in which they fly. The worst part was that I had also purchased the TurTle kite for a relative of mine, X Kites item #80476. Since it's the same as the LadyBug except for being a green turtle instead of a red ladybug, I have no reason to expect it to fly any better and plan to return it rather than subject the intended recipient to its crashing in variable conditions.

I launched a cellular kite, the eo6 Fire by Prism, in the place of the LadyBug and watched it soar, tumble, and dart up again while my deltas continued to dance until it was time for me to leave. Except for the experience with the LadyBug, it was a wonderful few hours spent flying kites on a beautiful spring afternoon.

Highly recommended.

The Essential Systems: Personal Attire

Personal Attire is the second of the Fifteen Essential Systems for preparedness, travel, and outdoor activities.

The checklist -

For the E-kit:

1. Face mask, rated N95 or better.

2. Earplugs.

3. Goggles for eye protection.

4. Nitrile gloves.

5. Non-breathable plastic rain gear.

For cool to cold weather, non-cotton clothing as follows:

1. Underwear and socks, tights, or stockings, with 2 extra pairs of wool socks and liner socks.

2. A base layer of thermal underwear, top and pants.

3. Insulating layers that can be worn or removed as needed. This includes a top and bottom and, typically, a sweater. Aim for loose, thin layers that trap air rather than tight or thick layers.

4. A wind and water protective shell such as a jacket or coat that shields you from the environment to include rain gear such as a rain coat, rain suit, poncho, and umbrella.

5. Shoes or boots.

6. Knit scarf, winter hat or knit cap, or ski mask, and gloves or mittens.

7. Sunglasses, a retaining cord or strap, and sun screen.

For warm to hot weather, preferably cotton clothing except for socks:

1. Underwear and socks with 2 extra pairs of socks and liner socks.

2. A base layer consisting of nothing more than a cotton T-shirt.

3. Insulating layer(s) protecting from sun and heat consist of long-sleeved top and long pants or ankle-length skirt.

4. The protective shell for warm weather doesn't require much more than rain gear to protect you from the environment although some locales will require a windbreaker.

5. Flip-flops, sandals, shoes, or boots.

6. Wide-brimmed hat, cotton bandanna, sun screen, and sunglasses with a retaining cord or strap.

7. Insect repellent.

8. Bug head net and/or mosquito netting (optional).

9. Blaze orange safety vest (optional).

10. Traveler's vest (optional).

Discussion:

The E-kit (E = "Exposure") is to protect your airway, eyes, ears, and skin against dust, noise, and hazardous materials. Nitrile gloves are the order of the day to avoid allergic reactions to latex. Get the cheapest plastic rain wear you can find such as those that are sold in pouches small enough to carry in a pocket. You don't want nylon or Gore-Tex® because breathable fabrics are not suitable for this type of protection and since the hazard most frequently experienced by families is a house fire, you hopefully will never have to use it and needn't spend much money on the gear. Having said that, the kit should be with you at all times especially if you live in a location likely to have dust storms or earthquakes (lots of dust) or receive falling ash or poisonous gases from a volcanic eruption.

The E-kit could also be useful to protect yourself from exposure to nuclear, biological, or chemical hazards caused or transmitted by people, but that depends on your knowing when to use the contents. Since the NBC (or BCR for biological, chemical, and radioactive for you Brits) hazards aren't readily detectable by ordinary citizens, it's more likely that by the time you're alerted, it'll be too late for protection and you'll need to seek medical treatment for having been exposed. If you aren't in the affected area, please stay away unless you're First Response personnel or don protective gear as may be appropriate.

The important thing to remember about cool-weather clothing is that it's to protect you from hypothermia and the best materials for this type of insulation are wool, silk, and synthetics. Wool is the best natural fiber because it retains its insulating properties even when wet. Cotton is the worst fabric because when damp, it conducts heat away from the body faster than other fabrics. Only down is worse for insulation than cotton when wet. Whatever material you select, avoid getting it wet, which includes sweating, because moisture speeds loss of body heat.

Conversely, warm-weather clothing is to protect you from the sun and hyperthermia which means that cotton is the best fabric to help keep your body from over-heating. Synthetics are getting better in this regard, but cotton is still king. Wool socks are still good in warm weather because wool keeps germs at bay.

To aid your body's natural cooling system, wet your bandanna and place it under your hat to help the heat escape your scalp, or tie it around your neck. Other areas to wet down are your trunk, front and back, and groin area. Wetting the inside of your elbows and backs of your knees will also help you keep your cool. There are specialty neck bands, caps, and hats that have cooling beads inside that, when soaked in water for only 5 - 30 minutes, expand to help keep you cool without getting you wet for as long as 3 days. Look for brand names such as blüBandoo® and MiraCool™ or make your own using medium-sized polymer beads; you'll need only about 2 teaspoons of beads to make a cooling bandanna for your neck.

For those times when daytime temperatures require you to wear cotton to avoid hyperthermia but evening and overnight temperatures require insulative clothing to prevent hypothermia, you'll need both types of clothing on hand. Even though you may be out only for the day, being prepared means that you'll have a change of clothing that includes a thermal base layer and non-cotton top and bottoms to change into in case you get caught out overnight. Include a knit cap and gloves because, although only about 10% of your body heat is lost through your head instead of the 30% to 45% as previously thought, our heads and hands are much more sensitive to the cold and we need to keep our brains warm to avoid fuzzy thinking that may negatively impact life and limb.

Brightly colored clothing such as blaze orange will help you be spotted by rescuers and prevent you from being shot by hunters. If you're hiking or engaging in photography or bird-watching during hunting season, it's a good idea to cover your pack with a second blaze orange safety vest to avoid getting shot in the back. When I was in Idaho in the fall of 2006, everyone was gearing up with blaze orange because a teen boy had been shot during the previous season while in an open field after harvest. You'd think the clear visibility would have been enough to keep the boy safe, but, unfortunately, it wasn't. One woman said that she had her husband experiment with various bright clothing that he had been using. When he was only a few feet into the woods, even while wearing his favorite red shirt, he blended in so well that he was completely lost from sight.

In case of fire, travelers should dress in natural fibers for a flight or train trip and avoid synthetics because they melt into skin. Because I'm allergic to wool, please be considerate and don't wear it when you'll be sitting next to me or anyone else who might be allergic to it or the nasty chemicals that are used to process the majority of wool products.

Since most airline emergencies don't involve fire but do require evacuation, a traveler's vest is a good accessory to have. Not only do the many pockets minimize what you'll have to carry in your bag, briefcase, or purse, a traveler's vest carries more than the typical waist pack. Should you have to evacuate, which means you shouldn't be taking the time to get anything to take with you, will need both hands free, and shouldn't be hindering other passengers from exiting the plane by taking up space with your personal bag; your essential items will already be on you and ready to go. A journalist's or photographer's vest will also serve.

Gore-Tex® is the best fabric for rain gear if you can afford it because it breathes. If not, look for nylon. I love my Gore-Tex® boonie and wished I could find another that's more fashionable for when I dress up. (I bought another hat a little while ago, but haven't had the occasion to try it out.) I also like the Cascade II poncho that I got from Campmor so much that when it was in my pack that got stolen a couple of years ago, I bought another and immediately stitched on a couple of Velcro® dots to keep the sides from flapping in the wind. If you already have a poncho and dislike the hood, try wearing a baseball cap under it. Not only will the cap's visor help keep the rain off your face, it will help the hood behave better when you need to turn your head. Unfortunately, if it's anything like the hood of another poncho I have that keeps sliding back, I don't know of anything that will help.

Shoes that are quick-drying and anti-microbial are ideal. Hiking boots protect your feet and ankles and are water-resistant. Sandals and flip-flops, while cool and comfortable, don't provide much protection from dirt, insects, or snakes. However, they don't take much room and a pair should be included for a change of footwear and for shower shoes or to wear to the pool or beach.

A ski cap takes the place of a knit cap and scarf because it covers the face, ears, and neck as well as head. It may be rolled up if only a cap is needed. I got mine in blaze orange.

Convertible mittens are great because they give both the warmth of mittens and the dexterity of fingerless gloves. Concerned that I might forget and leave mine behind somewhere, I got them in blaze orange, too, then got another pair in black for dress occasions.

You need sun screen whenever you're outdoors for any length of time. Clouds don't block ultraviolet light or prevent sunburn as many tourists in Hawai`i discover to their dismay on overcast days. Even though you wear a hat, you still need to apply sun screen because snow, water, sand, and expanses of concrete reflect the sun's rays up under hat brims. Check the label to ensure that the product shields from both UV-A and UV-B rays.

If you don't want to give up your favorite baseball cap for a wide-brimmed hat, tuck an edge of the bandanna under your cap to make a skirt that covers your neck and ears.

Sunglasses are a must to protect our eyes from developing cataracts or other problems. Here in the U.S., all sunglasses are required to protect from UV rays. Ideally, we'd all wear wraparound styles to protect unshielded light from entering from the sides, but since the fashionistas reign...

In regards to insect repellent, you should be aware that the popular ingredient, DEET, will melt plastic and is reputed to lower the efficacy of sunscreen by as much as 33%. You'll need to apply sunscreen first, as usual - at least a half hour before going outdoors, and use a higher SPF rating, and wash your hands thoroughly after applying a DEET product to prevent melting your plastic storage containers, your compass, and even your clothing, if it's made of recycled plastic. Combo products containing both sunscreen and insect repellent need to be used judiciously since DEET shouldn't be reapplied every few hours like most sunscreens. The CDC recommends using separate products to be safe.

Ultrathon™ contains DEET, but since the 3M Company figured out how to make a single application last as long as 12 hours, Ultrathon™ contains a lower concentration of DEET than other products. Please use with caution, anyway, because I don't know if the concentration is low enough that it won't melt plastic or irritate some people's skin the way that other products containing DEET have done.

Alternatives to DEET are Picaridin and the plant-based oil of lemon eucalyptus that should not be used on children under 3 years of age. Permethrin is another effective product that's applied to clothing and gear instead of directly onto skin. Spray Permethrin onto clothing and other material and let dry before wearing or using; it will last through laundering for several weeks.

While long clothing may be preferred to using chemicals against the bugs, unless the clothing is loose and thick enough, mosquitoes will bite right through the fabric. Younger children, especially babies in their carriers or strollers, would be better protected by mosquito netting. A bug head net should be big enough to wear over your broad-brimmed hat with extra-fine netting to keep out no-see-ums, biting midges, and sand flies, etc., and may fold up small enough to stick in a pocket.

This system should be one of the easiest to assemble because you're likely to have nearly everything already, they're readily available, and several of them are low-cost. Just set some of your older clothing aside for your emergency pack and get whatever other items you need.

[The previous article in this series is "The Essential Systems: Navigation."

The first article in this series is "Preparedness: Introducing the Fifteen Essential Systems."]

The Essential Systems: Navigation

Navigation is the first of the Fifteen Essential Systems for preparedness, travel, or hiking.

The checklist:

1. Compass(es)

2. Detailed street maps of home town and nearest large cities and the city you're visiting as a tourist or for business

3. Road map of state and neighboring states or a road atlas of the country

4. Map of local public transportation routes and timetable

5. Topographical maps

6. GPS receiver (optional).

Discussion:

1. Compass - A good compass is a baseplate compass marked in 1° or 2° increments with a clear baseplate, adjustable declination, a bezel that's easy to turn while wearing gloves, and is easy to read in dim light. A better compass is a mirror-sighting baseplate compass with the same features because you'll be able to get more accurate readings with it. The best compass for our purposes is a global mirror-sighting baseplate compass because you won't have to hold it absolutely level to get an accurate reading. The most reliable compasses are currently made by Brunton, Recta, Silva outside the U.S. and Canada, and Suunto.

(Silva in the U.S. and Canada is owned by Johnson Outdoors Inc. It used to sell reliable compasses made by the reputable Swedish Silva prior to 1998, but now sells compasses made by unknown manufacturers.)

Although compasses that have a fixed declination scale or no declination scale cost less than a compass with adjustable declination, it's well-worth spending the few dollars more. This isn't a feature you want to scrimp on because it's difficult to do calculations when you're stressed by disorientation, fatigue, cold, and hunger. Some people advocate placing a piece of tape on the compass to mark geographic north, but tape can shift and fall off. If you already have a compass that doesn't have an adjustable declination, the purchase wasn't a waste - keep it as a backup.

If you're in the U.S., the scales on the baseplate should include 1:24,000 (1 inch = 2,000 feet). Some compasses also have a 1:62,500 (1 inch = approximately 1 mile) scale. That scale won't be used much except with older maps because the U.S. Geological Survey 15-minute (1:62,500) map series is officially replaced by the 7.5-minute (1:24,000) series which is the best scale for topographical maps used by hikers because it shows critical details that smaller-scaled maps omit.

If you live outside the U.S. or your map's metric, look for a baseplate compass with the metric scales of 1:25,000 (1 centimeter = 0.25 kilometer) and 1:50,000 (1 centimeter = 0.5 kilometer). If you think you'll do the math necessary to convert from inches to metric, please don't count on being able to calculate accurately while under stress; your life is worth more than the expense of another compass.

If you read enough online or are around others who have used compasses, you'll eventually run across someone who swears that a lensatic compass is the best. It isn't necessarily true because a lensatic compass requires additional tools for use with a map that are already a part of the baseplate of a baseplate compass and since there's no declination adjustment on a lensatic compass, you'll have to do the math or learn how to orient a map which is so simple, someone with a baseplate compass that doesn't have adjustable declination should learn how to do it when out in the field.

Although some lensatic compasses do have a baseplate that would eliminate your needing to also pack a map tool or protractor and ruler, the baseplate may be short and you can't see through it to the map underneath like you can with a baseplate compass that has a clear baseplate.

If the argument is made that a lensatic compass is more accurate, you should challenge the statement by asking, "More accurate than what?" because not all baseplate compasses are created equal. For example, any compass with 1° or 2° increments is going to be more accurate than another with 5° increments. The bottom line is that a lensatic compass isn't any more accurate than a mirror-sighting baseplate compass. Another advantage to having a mirror-sighting baseplate compass is that it might also be used as a signaling mirror in a pinch.

Please don't get me wrong. I'm not against lensatic compasses. After all, I learned navigation with a lensatic compass. It's just that baseplate compasses are more convenient and easier to use.

Having written all that, I need to point out that the most important thing is being competent with whichever type of compass you choose because that basic skill is all you'll have when the chips are down. If you have your heart set on buying a lensatic compass, I recommend one by Cammenga which makes them for the U.S. military.

It's a good idea to have another compass as a backup such as a small or button compass to confirm what your primary compass is showing you when you don't want to believe it, as frequently occurs with disoriented hikers. The concept is that the majority rules: two compasses against one person's imperfect sense of direction. Practically any compass will serve as a backup as long as you know that it agrees with your primary compass before you start questioning its veracity. (Hard-headed people should have two backups to convince them to yield to their instruments.)

For a traveler flying from one city to go sight-seeing or attend business meetings in another, a small compass is useful to get oriented when exiting a subway or train and to avoid getting lost on narrow, winding streets with high walls or tall buildings that prevent you from spotting a landmark. Good, inexpensive, compasses for this purpose are those such as the Brunton Traveler which may be threaded onto a cord worn around your neck and the Suunto Clipper which comes with its own wristband or may be clipped onto watch bands up to 22mm wide.

The Suunto Clipper is available in two versions, non-luminous and luminous. The non-luminous version is black with a blue face. The luminous version is black with a white (luminous) bezel and points.

If you live in the northern hemisphere and travel to South America or Australia or vice versa, you're supposed to have a compass that's balanced for the zone you're in especially if you go hiking. Most people buy a compass when they arrive at their destination. However, the compass you have for your Essential Systems preparedness pack might work fine and not drag or hang up when you go south/north of the equator. So, go ahead, take it with you and see if it works before shelling out your hard-earned money for a new compass.

In 2005, Suunto got the five zones down to two zones where their compasses work for either the northern or the southern hemisphere with some overlap and then developed global compasses that work for both hemispheres such as the M-3G and MC-2G models. (If you buy another brand, Zone 1 is pretty much the entire northern hemisphere, the U.S., Canada, Europe, etc., meaning that you won't have to buy another compass when you travel to another region in the northern hemisphere.)

In case you're wondering, there's no need to be concerned about the upcoming geomagnetic flip because it will take much longer than our lifetimes (experts guestimate 500 - 2,000 years or more) to reach the point where the North and South poles begin to exchange places. Besides, the flip won't happen overnight or even over the course of a year. It will take perhaps thousands of years, long enough for the future generations to learn how to adapt and cope.

2. Detailed city street maps - if you need to go somewhere you're not familiar with during an emergency, having good maps already at hand will save you from considerable stress. I recommend that you also provide each child in your family with a city map or a copy that has the homes and/or workplaces of trusted friends and family marked on it so they know where to go if they ever become separated from you. Store their maps in plastic zip bags in their school bags or backpacks so they always have it with them.

For traveling to foreign countries, get dual-language maps before you go, if possible, or wait and buy a good map at your destination. It'll be easier because what we know in English, for example, will likely be a different word in the foreign country. Figuring out that Roma is Rome is easy enough, but what about Firenze? It doesn't look or sound anything like Florence. You need to be able to recognize signs and, if you ask residents for help with directions, English labels might not mean anything to them. If you can't locate a dual-language map, get the map that uses the foreign language and get used to the different names.

3. State road maps - same rationale as for the detailed city street maps. Please be aware that not all maps are created equally. For example, in 2006, the official state map of Georgia eliminated 488(!) communities. Maybe there wasn't much there other than a volunteer fire department and a store with a gas pump, but if you're low on gas, want some food, or need help, if I were a betting person, I'd bet in a heartbeat that you'd want a map that shows the location of the closest communities and what kind of road you'd have to travel to get to one of them.

If you have children, giving each child a copy of your road map with the route of your road trip highlighted will give them something to do as they look for signs that match the towns on their maps and will alleviate the "Are we there, yet?" questions because they'll be able to see on their maps how much farther you have to go. It's also an easy way to get them used to reading maps.

4. Public transportation routes and timetable - same rationale as for the detailed city street maps in case you can't drive for any reason.

5. Topographical maps - These are essential for hikers and other people who drive through wilderness areas. Fold the map and store it in a map case or a gallon-sized zip freezer bag.

I've found that National Geographic and many gift stores in U.S. recreational areas such as the National Park System sell USGS topo maps that are scaled 1:100,000 (30-minute) or smaller at 1:250,000. Please do not buy any of these for navigational purposes. The scale is so small, with so many details omitted, that you're bound to get confused trying to match your surroundings to the map and may get lost even though you do everything else right. Look for a 7.5 minute map (1:24,000) or metric equivalent (1:25,000) if you're outside the U.S. Boaters will need nautical charts instead of topo maps.

[Hint: One way to fold a map is to fold it in half, then fold the ends in to the middle fold accordion-style, and finally in half or in thirds lengthwise to get it down to a manageable size. This will enable you to view any portion of the map by unfolding sections without having to unfold the map completely.]

To obtain free index maps for each state, "Topographic Map Symbols," a free brochure interpreting the symbols used on USGS topo maps, catalogs, and to order topographic maps from the USGS, contact:

USGS Information Services
Box 25286
Denver, CO 80225
1-888-ASK-USGS or 303-202-4700
Fax: 303-202-4693
Web site: http://ask.usgs.gov

or use the USGS Map Locator to find, order, or download maps.

You may also download free index maps from GeoMart and OmniMap.

The publishers of topo maps for several other countries are listed at Wikipedia.

6. GPS receiver (optional) - As wonderful as GPS receivers are, you must know how to use a paper map and compass. You can NOT rely on a GPSr because batteries get drained, the unit's inability to see the satellites due to natural or urban canyons or dense tree or cloud cover, or other misfortune such as accidentally dropping and breaking it. Sure, compasses can break, too, however unlikely that might be considering they're made of acrylic or polycarbonate.

Speaking of plastic, you should go easy on the DEET because if it's strong enough, it will melt plastic. Be sure to wash it from your hands after applying it or use another insect repellent such as Picaridin, oil of lemon eucalyptus, or Permethrin that you spray onto clothing and let dry before wearing.

What many people who eschew compasses in favor of GPS receivers are ignorant about is that as long as the compass needle isn't damaged, it will still work. Even though the capsule is broken, it doesn't necessarily mean that you're up a creek without a paddle. You may have to wait longer for the needle to settle, or you may have to float it on a leaf or some other Plan B technique, but - HA! - try any of those with a broken GPSr and see what good it does you because once a GPS unit is broken, it's totally useless as a navigational device.

Besides, you have a backup compass, right?

Also, even though the geomagnetic flip won't occur for several generations, the New York Times reported on July 13, 2004 that satellites are being damaged and having electronic malfunctions from the declining magnetic strength. Of course, the problem was immediately addressed, but it takes time to effect a modification, better shielded satellites, perhaps. That's just another way that the GPS system might fail you and another reason for you to learn how to use a map and compass.

Some states, such as Oregon, have hefty fines for those who require a SAR effort and who don't have a topo map and compass with them. Another reason to not rely solely on a GPSr is that other states such as Colorado, ski areas in Idaho, and a county in Utah, may seek reimbursement for rescuing people who get lost.

We need to bear in mind, too, that what was given to us civilians, by discontinuing Selective Availability on May 2, 2000, may also be rescinded without notice for reasons of national security because the U.S. Department of Defense controls our Global Positioning Satellites.

Along that vein, travelers from the U.S. going to another country need to be aware that some countries consider GPS receivers to be restricted military equipment. To avoid unpleasant issues, be sure to check before you go to another country with your receiver.

What do you do after you accumulate the items on this checklist - sit around, waiting for an emergency situation requiring the use of them? No, I wouldn't let you read this far only to leave you hanging.

The first thing, of course, is for you to learn how to use your compass with a topo map. The USGS has a webpage for "Finding Your Way with Map and Compass." After reading it, especially if it seems as clear as mud, please go to your public library and check out books about navigation that are easier to read and comprehend. The library books will have exercises to do along with navigational tips and tricks that will compensate for any error introduced by inaccurate readings.

One point I want to bring out while I have your attention is that compasses use magnetic north while maps use geographic north. There are two ways to make them match.

The first, and by far the easiest method, has you setting your compass to match the map by adjusting the declination setting on your compass. That's it; find your declination value, then set it and forget it. There's no downside. You'll have to check the declination value at least annually and adjust your compass periodically, but until it changes more than, say, a half of a degree for a compass with 1° increments or a degree for a compass with 2° increments, your compass will read geographic north just like your map.

The second method has you matching your map to the compass. You can convert the map's geographic north to the magnetic north of your compass by drawing lines that are parallel to the angle of the declination value. It's a pain, especially on a trail with the map flapping in the breeze, and it has to be done with every map you use. Additionally, you'll have to buy new maps and redraw the lines whenever the declination value changes or before drawing the new lines on old maps, erase the old lines that you were smart enough to remember to draw with a pencil.

To be thorough, you should learn both methods. In practice, adhering to the first method, converting your compass from magnetic north to the map's geographic north by adjusting the declination, is the way I advise you to go no matter what whichever books you read tell you to do simply because it's easier. (I can't believe some teacher-authors don't even teach the first method and make their students and readers use the second method which is so much more inconvenient.)

After you've done the examples in the books in your local library, I recommend that you teach your children how to navigate. To practice, first make a map and set up a course or few in your backyard before progressing to a larger area like a local park and using a topo map. From there, you can maintain proficiency by engaging in one or more of the following activities that use a map and compass:

Geocaching - while most people use a GPSr to help them find the "treasure," there are those who use only a map and compass.

Orienteering - formerly a competitive sport only, orienteering now allows participation by those who want to stop and smell the flowers at their leisure.

Rogaining - long-distance navigation requiring teamwork

Waymarking - like geocaching except the "treasure" is a place to see.

If you practice staying found with a map and compass, you'll never get lost!

[The next article in this series is "The Essential Systems: Personal Attire."

The first article in this series is "Preparedness: Introducing the Fifteen Essential Systems."]

For Geocachers - My Car is a Travel Bug

A few days ago, I got and activated a static-cling Travel Bug window sticker for my car.

For those who don't know what I'm talking about, geocaching is a great reason to get off the computer and go have fun outside. It's treasure hunting for individuals and families alike. It's for everybody with skill levels ranging from the wheel-chair bound to athletic hikers. Typically, you need a computer to get the coordinates from whichever website(s) you choose to patronize and a GPS receiver to guide you to the spot unless you know how to map coordinates the old-fashioned way. For most caches, the rule is that if you take something, you need to leave something of equal or greater value so there's something for the next treasure hunter to find. Many urban caches are too small to hold much more than paper and a pencil for you to log that you found the cache so you may not require additional supplies or equipment, but those who venture away from urban settings are advised to take the Ten Essential Systems, including a compass and map, like any other hiker should.

Travel Bugs are a little different from the usual treasure because the geocacher doesn't keep them, but moves them from one cache to another to fulfill the goal set by the owner. However, a vehicle Travel Bug doesn't require you to buy a GPSr or know how to map coordinates because it doesn't wait for someone to pick it up from a cache and move it to another. It is already out and about waiting for someone to only catch sight of it. If you spot a vehicle with a Travel Bug sticker, all you have to do is write down the tracking number that's under the bug symbol, go to www.geocaching.com/track, enter the tracking number in the box provided and click "Track" so you're taken to the proper page, click "Found this item?" and log in to record your discovery.

For further information, please feel free to check out Getting Started, Resources, the Travel Bugs pages on the Trackable Items link, and other pages at www.geocaching.com.